This is the best (and perhaps only) eatery in Port Kaituma, the gold mining community in NW Guyana. It's called ‘BIG D’S FOOD MALL’, and is painted toothpaste green, and – instead of the usual techno – it emitted gentle chirrups of gospel choir.
This is the great seawall at Meten-Meer-Zorg in Guyana. Beyond the wall is the Atlantic looking sludgy and pink, like a desert of sediment except slightly more choppy. This sludge has been carried here from the heart of the South American continent by the Amazon, and this tainting of the sea continues all the way up past Venezuela.
This is Peereboom on the Berbice River, Guyana.
Here, on March 03, 1763, a huge force of rebellious slaves converged on the Dutch planters' house. Stalemate ensued, and so the warring parties agreed a cease fire, with the Dutch being allowed to head for their boats. What happened next would set the mood for the war to come.
Although I'm not Catholic, I am very pleased to hear that the Vatican has elected a pope from South America. It's long overdue. The continent provides 40% of the world's Catholics, and no one institution has had such an influence over this continent. At one stage (1609-1768), it even presided over a utopian state, here in Paraguay (pictured) managed by the Jesuits.
This is the back of the Stabroek Market, Georgetown (Guyana), which, in the late 18th century, had been a slave market. Here, after many days at sea, the African captives got their first sight of the then-Dutch colony of Demerara.
In a few weeks time, I'll be heading out to Poland to launch 'Wild Coast', the book of my travels in Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana. There were several points in my journey where my path crossed with Poles.... Here are three of them. Can you think of other Polish-Guianese connections?
This is New Amesterdam (Guyana), where the Berbice enters the sea. Here is a great, blank estuary, the colour of sharpened knives. I remember thinking how bright it seemed, and how the only shapes were two straggly lines of attenuating mangrove. Out in the glare nothing moved except dolphins, forming soundless hoops of pink and grey, before vanishing in rings.
Today, on World Book Day, we celebrate the best of books, and it's a great occasion for young and old. But part of the fun of books is evaluating them. You'll hear alot about great books today .. but what about the bad ones? Here is my list of the worst travel books:-